Olive & June Gel Manicure System: My Honest First Thoughts & Review

by Kara Crevier October 24, 2024

Olive & June is releasing GEL POLISH!!

If you’re new here, I’m Kara and I’m a licensed nail tech and educator for both nail technicians and nail enthusiasts. I pride myself on being a gel expert and it’s become one of my favorite nail products to use and teach others how to use.

Disclaimer: I almost feel two ways about this post because I have been staunchly against at home gel kits in the past, and I have a lot of thoughts on this one. I obviously love O&J and I know they have done a lot of testing. But this is also a brand new product and I literally just tried it for the first time the other day. SO can I guarantee that it's totally safe and you'll get xyz results? Personally, no. I have used other brands for years at this point, and I just cannot say the same for this product. That doesn't mean that I don't like it or don't recommend it necessarily, but I think it should only be used as directed at this time with caution. This post has a lot of safety/cautionary info because I'm very passionate about it! :) ok let's get into it!!!

^This is CCT and Plaza for art!

Before we start: if you are totally new to gel polish, I always recommend doing research and training videos before using it. It is NOT the same as regular polish and there are risks that come with using it when done incorrectly. Whether you just watch tutorials on social media, or take one of my courses, there are a bunch of nuances that go into using gel that are important to understand before using it on yourself.

There is a reason why gel polish is typically labeled “for professional use only” and why you need to go to school and become licensed to use it on other people. Please be careful when using gel and do you research from a trusted and licensed nail technician. When used incorrectly, gel can cause skin sensitivities or allergies that lead to no longer being able to use nail products, gel products, press on / cosmetic glue (for eyelashes, etc.), and can cause issues with products used in orthopedic and dental procedures, bandaids, anything with adhesives etc. Safety is KEY and super important when using any type of gel product.

If you are interested in learning more, check out my NEW Gel Manicure Safety & Foundations e-book or my NEW Basic Gel Manicure Video Course so you can become a gel expert too and confidently execute a gel manicure!

I typically don’t recommend using diy gel manicure systems or at-home systems because a lot of them have sketchy formulas and instructions, and can cause harmful allergies if used incorrectly, however I have had the chance to use this one a few times and I have enjoyed it so far with positive first impressions, and since it is so new, I do have some reservations/thoughts on it that I'll touch on too!

Details of the system:

(From O&J) It’s formulated to last up to 21 days with a plump, shiny finish in 28 top-selling Olive & June colors. O&J gel is HEMA-free, 15-free, vegan, and cruelty-free. Plus application is fast with their new lamp and there's no dry time. They also made a new peel-off base coat and a new removal system for easy removal.

The System:

If you’re familiar with the O&J mani system, this one is pretty similar prep-wise except they included their cuticle remover, cuticle pusher, and a new acetone removal pot.

Their gel is a 3 step system with a gel base coat, gel color and gel top coat. Unlike their quick dry or long lasting regular polish, you do need to use a gel base coat with gel polish because the formulas and chemical composition of the gel will differ depending on what it’s being used for. I.E. The color does not have a built in base coat, so if you just apply it to your nails, you will likely have it peel off because it’s not meant to adhere to your nails directly like gel base coat is. And the color itself is not non-wipe, so if you leave it on without applying the top coat, it will be tacky, collect dust, and get dull. Also, the tacky layer is a small amount of uncured gel that needs to fully cure once you apply the top coat.

This is a hybrid gel, read this blog to learn more about the types of gel!

I would say this product is essentially like longer lasting, more durable nail polish option.

The Process:

I’d recommend checking out their website and socials for demonstrations of how they suggest applying it but basically you do:

Nail prep
Gel base coat, cure
Gel color, cure
Gel color again, cure
Gel top coat, cure
*Every single layer must be very thin in order to cure

To remove it:

If you use the peel off base, you can just pop it off carefully. If you did not use the peel off base, you need to file off the top layers and soak your nails in acetone for 10-15 minutes and carefully file/buff off/continue soaking off. I have a demo on how to safely do this process in my new course!

Ok let’s get into some of my thoughts!

To Start:

Gel is not the same as regular polish, it does have a learning curve. The formula is much thicker and you need to be super careful with it
As a general rule of thumb, I always say you NEVER want to touch uncured gel or gel it on your skin. If you are a messy painter and you typically get polish on your skin, you need to work on your painting skills before using gel.

It's not only messy to clean up, but it's not safe to get it on your skin. I still get a small amount on mine here and there, but taking your time and perfecting your application is super important with using gel!

What I like about it:

The system is very easy and straightforward to use
The gel colors are very saturated and the coats look even and very lovely with two coats
I didn’t have any issues with shrinking, craters or bubbling with this lamp
Peel off base is really easy to use! (more on that below)
You can really take your time with gel to perfect your application before you cure it
I loveee doing nail art with gel, it’s so much better. You can take your time and cure it once you like how it looks!

Other Thoughts (I have a lot lol):

I am going to share some important blog posts that I think everyone should read before using gel to be as safe as possible and to prevent gel allergies:

How to Avoid Gel Allergies + Is HEMA a Bag Ingredient?

How to Cure Dark Colors + Why Is Your Gel Tacky After Curing?

How to Mix Regular Polish + Gel Polis

It seems like used the same brushes as their Long Lasting (LL) polish, which hold on to a lot of product. You really need to wipe most of the gel off of the brush before you apply it so you can control how much gel you’re using at once. Remember to do really thin layers!

This is not builder gel, if you've seen me post about that before (once or twice ;)). You need to apply these in thin coats. It's essentially longer lasting, more durable nail polish.

The base coat & color coat cure with a tacky layer - PLEASE read this blog post to learn more about it because this is one of my most asked questions / a major area of confusion for a lot of people. But the top coat is non-wipe.

Acetone is a super strong solvent. If you get it on your lamp or work surface or anywhere it shouldn’t go, it can cause destruction. Acetone is also used to remove your gel and I personally don’t like using it in my prep process when I use other brands, because it’s not necessary and can sometimes cause issues with adhesion. I personally prefer using 90% or higher isopropyl alcohol.

I also prefer doing a fully dry manicure for gel because liquid is one of the main reasons gel can lift, so their recommended prep process is a little different than what I normally do, however I didn’t find that it caused any issues.

If you use the peel off base, you need to make sure that you let it air dry COMPLETELY before you apply the gel, otherwise it will get so tacky and be such a mess and make your gel stringy and impossible to work with. I learned this the hard way! Give it like 5-10 mins or get a fan to make it faster. You should touch it and not feel any tackiness before using gel on top. The peel off base is not gel, it just air dries.

I am very against peeling gel. It can cause damage by taking off layers of your nail and make them feel bendy and weakened. It also can mess with the adhesion of your next manicures and get you into a bad cycle. One of the options for the gel system is a peel off base, which kind of goes against everything I explained above so I don’t know how I feel about that. They say it’s non damaging but I have only ever tried using one over existing builder base gel which obviously adds a layer of protection so I don’t know how I feel about peeling it off from your natural nail 🤷🏻‍♀️

Ok I have a bunch more thoughts on HEMA/their formula and the lamp below that needed their own space!

HEMA Free Gel + Gel Allergies:

Let’s talk about gel allergies and HEMA since these gel polishes are HEMA Free.

First off, if you have an allergy to HEMA, can you use these? Long answer short, maybe- but you should see a doctor first!

Long answer, I find that most people self-diagnose their gel allergies and assume they have a HEMA allergy after an irritation occurs. If you have ever had an irritation from gel, PLEASE go to a doctor. This is an allergy that you need to know about. If you were allergic to peanuts, you would need to know so that you could avoid it. This is the same with HEMA and other acrylates used in gel polish. These ingredients are also used in dental and orthopedic procedures as well as other areas of your life that you wouldn’t think of and you need to inform doctors about this allergy so they don’t use adhesives and products that contain ingredients you are allergic to.

Also, there are several allergens in gel, you could be allergic to another ingredient besides HEMA! You won’t know until you get an allergy test. Read this post for more info.

Not everyone will get allergies to gel. It all depends on how you use the product and how your body reacts to it.

HEMA is hydroxyethyl methacrylate and is a very commonly villainized ingredient in gel products. HEMA is a monomer that is used to polymerize the gel (aka cure it!) and it's used to help the gel adhere to your nails.

I always say if you do not have an allergy to HEMA, there is no need to be afraid of it or avoid it (I use products that contain it all the time). But if you ARE allergic to it, you should not be using it at all. Again, just like if you are allergic to peanuts… you should probably avoid peanut butter.

Learn even more about this topic + all of my gel manicure safety guidelines in my NEW Gel Manicure Safety & Foundations e-book or my NEW Gel Manicure Foundations Video Course!

HEMA FREE ≠ Allergy Free

Some important and basic gel chemistry + how it pertains to allergies:

Gel polish is made out of monomers (to adhere to gel to your nails) and photoinitiators (to cure the gel). HEMA is a common monomer, but when it is removed from the formula, a new monomer MUST be added back in its place for the product to adhere to your nails.

HEMA Free IS hypoallergenic, but it does not guarantee you won’t get a gel allergy because you can just as easily become allergic to its replacement or another ingredient in the formula if it is not cured properly or its misused. The allergies occur when the HEMA monomers are left uncured, they are super tiny molecules (monomer = mono = one = super tiny), and they can easily leech into your skin and bloodstream which is what will trigger the allergic reactions.

So like I said, HEMA itself is a very small monomer, and it’s very easy for it to be absorbed into your skin when exposed to water. Brands can manufacture their formulas to use larger, safer and more stable forms of HEMA or use a replacement.

These are usually called oligomers (aka many monomers), di-hema or bis-hema, which are just chains of monomers or monomers bonded with another ingredient, making them larger and therefore harder to absorb into the skin.

Instead of using HEMA in their formula, it looks like O&J replaced it with bis-HEMA and/or HPMA (Hydroxypropyl Methacrylate) which binding agents used to adhere the polish to your nails. HPMA is likely less allergenic than HEMA, but again, can still cause allergies if misused. And if you have an allergy to HPMA, you should not use this product.

GEL LAMPS!

Understanding UV and LED:

These are two different things and they’ve become kind of used in the same breath in the gel industry when talking about gel lamps! But let’s break it down:

UV is a range of energy, measured in nanometers (nm). Nanometers are the measurement of the wavelength frequency.

LED is a light emitting diode and it’s a type of bulb that emits UV light. The types of bulbs in the O&J lamp are LED bulbs that emit a range of light compatible with their gel polish so that it will cure.

So to put it in simple terms, gel lamps use LED bulbs to emit UV light to cure the gel polish.

The lamp that I usually use from Kokoist, emits light at a wavelength of 365 nanometers to 405 nanometers. From my understanding, most lamps have a combination of bulbs that emit different wavelengths in order to have a larger range/frequency, to better cure the gel.

Now, I am not sure about these specs for the O&J lamp but, I will leave you with a few quick points re: the lamp:

There are 17 LED bulbs positioned toward the back and sides of the lamp
Hand placement is super important, especially since this is a small lamp with few bulbs!

For reference, the Kokoist lamp I use has 82 bulbs in it, positioned all over the lamp, with a reflective bottom

Put your fingers all the way back to make sure they are under the lights when you cure

I personally prefer to cure my thumb separately to prevent pooling but the lights are very far back which makes that difficult to trust that it will cure fully if you only have your thumb in.

I would recommend putting just your thumb in to kickstart the cure for 10-15 seconds, and then put your entire hand in so the light can efficiently cure the whole nail

I am not sure what the wavelength of the lamp is (I hope I can find this info soon!)
Wattage does not matter with gel lamps, you need to understand the wavelength required to cure the polish, and also ensure you have correct hand placement & application etc.
It is a myth that if you cure your nails for a longer time that you will more fully cure them. What is actually important is that you apply your gel correctly and in thin coats for the light to properly cure each layer, and that you place your fingers in the lamp correctly for the light to properly cure it too.

The reason why using the correct lamp + correctly applying gel is SO important is because there have been studies done that show that the first minute of curing will cure about 90-95% of your gel and curing it any longer will only cure a few more percent. SO if your lamp is not strong enough and it only cures 50% of your gel, only a few more percent will be cured if you keep it in there for additional minutes.

I’m not sure how long this lamp will last for especially since it’s new, but just understand that they do not last forever and will need to be replaced eventually
It’s best practice to only use the gel lamp and nail polish system manufactured by the same brand, so I would only recommend using O&J gel with the O&J lamp because they have been tested to work together and I would say at this point there is not enough research on what other polishes or lamps would work if you wanted to mix and match.
Gel feels fully cured at 50%, so it’s very hard to know if there are still uncured molecules. I trust that they did research to ensure everything cures properly when applied correctly, so that does make me feel better.

RAPID FIRE THOUGHTS:

If the gel feels tacky after you cure it, even for 2 mins, that is the tacky layer. Read this blog post for more info. Also you shouldn't touch your gel with your bare hands. Wear gloves or use a tool!
Always apply THIN coats. Wipe off most of the polish from the brush before you paint
Clean up any pooled polish before you cure your nails. Work 1 or 2 nails at a time if it’s easier
If you get pooled polish, try to file it off or start over because it will cause lifting
If you use this product and start to see or feel any signs of a gel allergy, please stop using it asap and go to the doctor!
Unlike regular polish, when you expose gel polish to the sun (or even just take it outside), it will start to cure on the brush or inside of the bottle and it will literally ruin your bottle of gel (I know from experience :)). Only use this product inside, away from windows and sunlight and store it in a dark place to keep it as long as possible. I store mine inside of a cabinet!
Be mindful where you are getting your information from. I always recommend doing research and watching tutorials from a trained nail technician.
If you need help or want to learn even more: check out my new e-book and course!!!

Q&A:

How does this compare to Kokoist/Nail Thoughts?

This is very different, it's like apples and oranges! Kokoist is a professional pure gel brand and this is a diy at home gel kit. The formulas and system are different.

Can you mix Kokoist/Nail Thoughts with O&J Gel?

I would not recommend it for the reasons above. They have not been tested to work together and if you use both brands together and they don't play well, there is a risk of uncured gel, etc. etc.

Can you use another brand of lamp or polish with this system?

Again, I would NOT. There is not enough testing to know if it works. This is a DIY at-home gel system, and I think at this point, it should only be used as directed for best results.

Can you use the O&J Lamp for other brands/Kokoist?

NO! Only use it as directed. And a big no for Kokoist/Nail Thoughts.

Can you use regular polish with the gel still?

YES, but make sure to read this blog post for details on the order and how to do it!

Can you layer the O&J gel polish? Like use different colors together?

Yes, but you need to cure every single layer as you go.

Does it have ingredients that can cause gel allergies?

Yes! ANY gel can cause gel allergies, no matter how safe or trusted or clean or premium the brand is. This is why following directions and being safe is key!

I'm worried about the quality since it's a new brand

I get this 100% and I agree! I have never used a brand new gel brand before and I know O&J did a lot of testing to ensure that their formula is safe to use when used correctly. If you're interested in trying it, do a lot of research and be super careful with application!

Would you use the Kokoist Builder Base under it?

No! As of now, I would suggest only using O&J gel with O&J gel. These are two different products as mentioned above. They have not been tested together and it's very hard for anyone at home (aka not a chemist/scientist) to know if the gel is actually cured properly. It looks & feels cured at 50%, so if you mix brands and there is an issue, you really might have no idea because it seems cured but it might not be. If you want to wear builder gel, I would suggest doing builder gel and gel top coat, and then use regular polish over it!

Would it work for applying gel extensions?

No! For all reasons above :)

Is the removal easy?

They say the peel off base makes it so you can peel it easily, but please be GENTLE and so careful whenever you peel anything 🫣. Definitely don't peel your gel without the peel off base underneath, you will damage your nails!!!
The other removal is a traditional gel removal with soaking in acetone, I have a tutorial on how to do that in my new basic gel manicure course! Is it easy? I personally didn't try it because I hate soaking of my gels so much truthfully. But if you follow my tutorial it should be easy, especially since this is not pure gel.

Is this a good option for total gel newbies?

I think so! It's very straight forward to use which I really liked! If you are totally new to gel though, PLEASE be careful with painting and curing etc. etc!

Does this gel feel hot when you cure it?

It's possible! This is an exothermic reaction when the monomers in the polish start to polymerize. It's normal and often happens more with base coats because there is more monomer. If your layer is thick (like builder gel), you can feel it more too! I always recommend pulling your hand out of the lamp until it goes away and then start your cure over.

What do you really think about this system?

This is a great question and I know I've talked sooo much and yet somehow I still have thoughts.
This is very different than what I usually use gel-wise. If you have seen my content about gel, I use japanese/korean pure gel and builder gel. It's very pigmented and has a syrup-y consistency that is amazing for doing really thin layers for fun nail art combos.
This product is more like a basic salon gel manicure, with just base and color and top coat, although you can definitely do art too!
I think it seems like a good option for what it is, but it's not going to replace what I typically use for gel if I'm being honest, it's just an addition to my collection - essentially something new!

My closing thoughts:

I like this product and think it’s easy to use and the results looked great! As a nail tech who has been using other brands and techniques of gel for years, I do have a few hesitancies, but overall, my first impression is that I think it’s a good system when used correctly and safely. I personally think that safety should be TOP TOP TOP of mind when using gel in order to avoid gel allergies so if you are new to this product, or if you are new to learning about gel safely, please do your research before using. And to emphasize this again, please make sure you are doing your research and watching tutorials from a licensed nail tech. Since this is a totally new product in the market, I’m very curious to see reviews from other users too.

Please let me know if you have any questions!